Japanese Home Cooking Supper Club

The London Foodie Supper Club

Towards the end of my second year in university, I applied for a year-long work placement in Japan. For the interview, I had to do a presentation to a group of serious-looking, straight faced Japanese guys. Needless to say I was extremely nervous, so I thought my chances were doomed. It was not until I got my ‘special activities’ visa from the Japanese embassy, that I realized I was actually leaving London for Japan.

Living in Japan was totally brilliant - I got to try broccoli ice cream in Okinawa, see the amazing ice sculptures in the Sapporo snow festival, and visit the Ninja museum in Iga (East of Nara) - but this all came at a price. I had a limited monthly allowance, so I only allowed myself to go out for a meal once every two weeks, and occasionally travelled to Tokyo to queue up at the popular ramen restaurants (regional ramen restaurant rankings are published weekly in Japan). During the week I would wait for the daily supermarket sale, usually after eight o’clock in the evening, to get the discounted fish and meat to make donburi for dinner.

I used to live here and my flat was tiny!

I was very lucky to make some good friends at the company I worked for. They taught me how to speak Japanese, and invited me to meet their families. It was such an amazing experience to sit round a table with a Japanese family, and have a home cooked meal together. We had different parties - temaki (hand roll sushi), sukiyaki (thin sliced beef cooked in mirin and soy sauce), yakiniku (barbeque meat), nabe (hot pot) and many more. Since my parents were far away (and I could not afford many luxury meals myself!), I always treasured the ‘family time’ in Japan.

That was why The London Foodie’s (Luiz) latest supper club ‘Japanese Home Cooking’ really caught my eyes.

We arrived at Luiz’s beautiful home in Islington around half an hour before the official start, and there were already a few people mingling in the lounge. It was the first ever supper club I had been to that was hosted in somebody’s home, so I was a bit anxious about breaking things or spilling drinks on the carpet. Luckily my silly self consciousness was soon offset by trays of mouth-watering maki.

After the drinks, we were led to the dining room where several nabe were setup on the tables. The ingredients - clams, pork belly, daikon, prawns and vegetables - were perfectly arranged in the pot. Luiz chose nabe to kick start the meal, because it is a dish for sharing so would help to break the ice. What a thoughtful idea.

Udon noodles were added to the broth after the food in the pot was cleared. The broth contained all the flavours from the meat and seafood, so it became lusciously rich and sweet.

We had some salmon sashimi while waiting for the nabe to cook. It was prepared in the ‘South American Way’, served with avocado, crème fraîche and a yuzu dressing.

There was a small break after the nabe, so we took a sneak peek at the kitchen.

Back at the table, arrays of main courses had arrived. The fillet of beef used in the tataki was of a high quality, it remained very moist even though it was served at room temperature. The creamy sesame was light so it did not overpower the beef, a perfect dish after a relatively heavy nabe.

You can find nasu dengaku in most of the Japanese restaurants in London. Unfortunately I have found most of them rather dry, with the ‘miso’ poured over the cooked aubergine like a sauce. It was a very clever move from Luiz to use baby aubergines, they are easier to cook through, and I could taste the white miso throughout instead of just on the surface.

We also had stir fried green beans with Japanese fish cake, takikomi gohan and tamagoyaki. The spicy sauce which came with the beans gave the dish a lovely kick, I could just eat that with a bowl of rice all day long.

Takikomi gohan is a rice dish cooked with sake, soy sauce, carrot, mushroom and chicken. Each ingredient was carefully seasoned to create a beautiful balance.

The main courses ended with grilled layers of sweetened egg, which required a huge amount of skill (and patience!) to master.

The dessert was a madeleine with a trio of homemade ice creams - green tea, black sesame and red bean.

During dinner, a guest at our table asked ‘So is this what Japanese people have for dinner at home?’. I answered ‘Yes!’ without any hesitation, as Luiz’s food had brought back the memories of all those heart warming meals I had in Japan. Not only had he showcased his culinary skills in the supper club, he had also reminded us that Japanese cuisine is a lot more than sushi, tempura and gyoza.

The London Foodie Supper Club

Safa

Safa, Camberwell

It was one of those nights when we really craved a decent curry. There are so many Indian restaurants in South East London (there must be at least ten on Lordship Lane alone!), where should we go? I was aimlessly browsing the Internet, hoping to find recommendations for our curry fix, and then I came across PeckhamRyeEats’s blog post about an Indian restaurant called ‘Safa’ in Camberwell. It was a very positive review (and I really liked the sound of the fish starter), so we decided to  check it out.

The restaurant was furnished in a modern style with leather chairs and pendant lights. The staff were dressed smartly in black shirts, with green ties that matched the restaurant’s shop front. Most of the menu was pretty much the same as a generic high street Indian restaurant, but there were also some Southern Indian dishes on offer.

We had uttappam and fish Amritsar for starters. The pancake-like dish was topped with tomatoes, onions, chillies and curry leaves. It was nice and fluffy inside, although would have been better with a touch more seasoning. The batter surrounding the deep fried cod was thin and crispy, and the tomatoey chilli sauce was deliciously addictive.

I still cannot believe the lamb was shank priced at only £6.10! It was of a decent size, and slow cooked until very tender. It also came with spiced crushed potatoes and a small portion of pepper salad. I really enjoyed the tiger prawn dish, as it was hot and spicy, just how I like it! The mushrooms and the chopped onions in the masala based sauce gave extra texture, and took the edge off the spiciness.

Sides: Baingan Bharta (charcoal smoked aubergines cooked with onions and tomatoes) and garlic naan

It was a very enjoyable meal in Safa. The dishes we had were not greasy, and tasted fresh. I found the service a bit ‘cold’, but other than that, I cannot think of a reason why I would not go back. Another great discovery on Camberwell Church Street!

Safa

Roganic

Roganic, Marylebone

I know I was a bit late for the party, but I finally made it. Roganic was an instant hit when it first opened in June last year. I did not feel very enthusiastic about it at that point - firstly because I had very little idea who Simon Rogan was (I only knew that he had a restaurant called L’enclume in Cumbria), and secondly, I was not sure if the food would be to my taste, as I had never had a vegetable based fine dining meal. But several months of observation (more like seeing constant rave reviews appearing on my Twitter timeline) led me to wonder if I should pay a visit. After consulting the restaurant guru TheSkinnyBib, I decided to treat my lovely husband to a meal at Roganic for his birthday last December. Now, one and a half months later, I still think it was one of the best meals I had last year.

The restaurant is petite with a minimalist style. ‘How was your day?’ asked Jon, one of the front of house staff, as we sat down at our table. The service in Roganic is a bit different from a generic fine dining restaurant, the staff here are professional yet causal. They did not walk away after we responded to their opening line, they carried on the conversation, and most importantly they remembered what we said throughout the night. Some people may find it a bit intrusive, but I reckon little things like this help to make your dining experience unique and memorable.

There were two menus to choose from - a six or ten course tasting menu. We opted for the full ten course one, it was a special occasion after all :) We were presented with a tray of homemade breads to start with - chestnut, pumpernickel, oat and buttermilk - all warm and perfectly shaped. Followed by ‘corned beef’ canapes, topped with mustard mayo, apple and pickled carrot.

And now, I present to you some of the most amazing food art on earth...

Millet pudding with grains, burnt pear and Isle of Mull blue - Blue cheese and pear is a tried and tested combination, the burnt favour added another level of richness to it. The grains in the millet pudding underneath were cooked just right, slightly chewy but not sticky.

King Richard baked in clay and rosemary, autumn truffle, shallot jam - King Richard is a kind of leek. We were shown an impressive looking tray full of soil and herbs, in which the leek was baked. The dish was topped with a generous amount of truffle. Sandia (the front of house staff member with the sweetest smile!) continued to grate the truffle until I got my action shot. You do not get that elsewhere, I can tell you!

Roasted langoustine, cured char, purple sprouting and chokeberry vinaigrette - One of my favourites of the night. The chokeberry dressing provided the right amount of acidity to the char, a fish in the salmon family. The langoustine was small yet intense, I just wish I could have had a bit more of it.

Poached and grilled king oyster, pine, beetroot and coastal sea leaves - Biting into the delicious oyster mushroom released the ‘juices’ it soaked up during the poaching process. It was highly enjoyable, but the essence of this dish was actually in the mushroom puree. I picked up a small amount on my fork, it was like a powerful mushroom boom in my mouth. When we met Ben, the head chef, in the kitchen after the meal, he was more than happy to explain the technique.

Caramelised cauliflower, sour cream, raisin, grilled lettuce and yarrow - Another favourite of the meal. I still cannot believe that I got excited by a floret of cauliflower, but I did. The raisin puree was interesting, it was finely judged so it did not overpower the other ingredients.

Mr Little’s Yetholm Gypsies cooked in chicken fat, snow peas, curd and clam juice - It was half a potato with crispy chicken skin, so simple, but the fat gave it an incredible depth of favour. I still think chicken skin is so underrated, it should really be used more often in restaurants.

Dab baked in fennel salt, sea beet, parsley root and watermint - Dab has a similar texture to monkfish, firm but not as meaty. I particularly enjoyed this dish because there was not single ingredient that I had tried before, and certainly nothing I can find in the local green grocer.

Yorkshire pheasant, pumpkin, muesli and buckshorn plantain - It would be the biggest lie if I told you that I did not crave some meat by this point. The pheasant did not disappoint. It was tender and cooked slightly pink, just how I like it.

Warm salted chocolate, toasted almonds and heritage apple sorbet

Bilberries, dried caramel, natural yogurt and iced lemon thyme

We had four desserts. The salted warm chocolate was served from a foam maker, so it was actually quite light. The texture of the sharp and bright green apple sorbet was like a light ice cream rather than a sorbet. The bilberry dessert was very refreshing, which was a nice way to end the meal. Just as we thought we had finished all ten courses, we were served a couple of warm milkshakes and Victoria sponges. It was like watching the bonus scenes after the closing credits of a great movie.

It may be over the top to say that Roganic has changed my food philosophy, but to a certain extent it did. There is a saying in Chinese ‘無肉不歡’, the literal translation is ‘no meat no happiness’. It describes people who love eating meat and cannot do without it, i.e. me. There was little fish or meat served during out meal, but I was happy. I cannot pinpoint my absolute favourite dish, as every one of them was full of joy. Roganic is different and strong-minded. I am pretty sure that it will continue to grow into something extraordinary.

Roganic

Jose Pizarro

Jose and Pizarro, Bermondsey Street

Jose Pizarro. A chef? A sherry bar? A restaurant? Actually it is all three. Jose and Pizarro are the two latest Spanish additions to Bermondsey Street. The ex-chef partner at Brindisa in Borough Market has opened two self-named eateries this year - Jose is a sherry and tapas bar with limited seating, and Pizarro is a proper restaurant that does a more conventional three course menu.

My first impression of Jose was that it was small. There were only a few seats along the windows and near the kitchen, the rest was standing only. We arrived before seven o’clock on a Wednesday, and it was already packed. A friendly waiter introduced himself, and then led us to a space next to a table which was about to become vacant. We opened a bottle of sherry to share during the wait, making the ‘queueing’ a lot more bearable. But looking at the specials written on the blackboard and the pretty looking dishes flying out from the pass, we could not wait any longer to try out the food...

Chorizo Ibérico Manuel Maldonado

Razor clams, chorizo, mint

Ham croquetas

Baby chicken, potato, Romesco sauce

Razor clams were taken out from a glass box next to the bar and straight on to the grill. The chorizo and mint sauce worked beautifully with them. I always think the best style of cooking shellfish is the Chinese way, but these juicy clams exceeded my expectations. The melt in the mouth croquetas were another must-order item on the menu. I can eat these little creamy crispy balls all day.

From top left clockwise: Squid and runner beans, Clams and jamon, Tortilla and Ibérico pork fillet

The chefs at Jose know their seafood, order any seafood item from the menu and you will not be disappointed. Both the squid and clams were incredibly fresh, they must have the best supplier in town. The pork fillet spoke for itself - rich, tender with a subtle sweetness. It was highly enjoyable, although the Ibérico pork at The Corner Room is still the best I have had.

We were standing the whole time during our meal, I did not mind that at all as the food and the buzzing atmosphere made it all worthwhile. Jose is not a destination for a big group nor a fine dining experience, it is best to come in a group of less than 4 to share a few plates of tapas and drinks. I can see that this would be a good place for single diners as well, I always find it hard not to stand out when eating alone in London restaurants.

If you feel uncomfortable about enjoying your meal while standing up, don’t worry, Mr Pizarro has it covered. A few doors down the road is the newly opened sit-down restaurant Pizarro. We went there to take advantage of the soft opening (last December), where everything on the menu was half price. Behind the wooden door is a L-shape dining area, decorated with dark wood furniture and red brick walls. There was a long table along one side of the room, and a few tables and bar seats on the other side facing the open plan kitchen.

The menu consisted of nine starters, six mains and four desserts, and with prices ranging from £6 to £16 per dish, seemed very reasonable even without the discount. We went for three courses each, although there is nothing to stop you ordering a few starter plates to share instead.

Ham croquetas

Duck livers, red onions, fino

And yes I ordered the croquetas again. The crust was so thin that only a small bite was needed to expose the creamy filling. Generous pieces of liver were slightly pink in the middle, just how I like it. Both capers and liver have a very strong flavour, but the chef had got the balance just right so they accompanied each other nicely.

Lamb, lentils, Radicchio

Secreto Ibérico, olive oil mash, Piquillo pepper

The lamb was cooked medium rare with a hint of salt and pepper. It was simple but my better half said it was one of the best lamb dishes he had ever had. The waiter said the cut they used for the pork was near the shoulder. I particularly enjoyed the fatty bits connecting the lean meat, together with the rustic olive oil mash and paprika, it was absolutely delicious.

Cava, pear sorbet

Chocolate, toast, caramel ice cream

Desserts were winners as well. The sorbet tasted almost like frozen pear, it was so fresh, and at the same time I got the tingling sensation from the Cava. I literally could not stop slurping after the first mouthful. The ball of chocolate mousse on toast with caramel ice cream was a sweet-savoury joy. The sea salt sprinkled on top of the chocolate was a nice touch which brought the dish together.

It was the first week of opening so service was a bit rough at the edges, but it was the food that really delivered. Pizarro is a treasure of Spanish comfort food, made using the best local produce. I am already looking forward to going back to try some new dishes very soon!

Jose Pizarro